GUIDE: STYLE STAPLES, SHOES

Every wardrobe needs a few staples. Staples are items that work with lots of different outfits and really hold your style together. I will write a post about clothing style staples later, but for now I really just want to talk about shoes. You do not need to own all of these, but owning a few will certainly help you achieve your desired look.

CREEPERS
Creepers are very distinct looking shoes. They tend to look a bit like loafers, with the flat part at the top of your foot being made from a contrasting material. These shoes are usually "statement shoes" and can often be the focal point of a whole outfit. I have seen platform creepers, white creepers with plaid toes, black creepers with leopard print toes, white creepers with big black crosses on the toes, you name it. These are very sexy shoes.

DOC MARTENS
Doc Martens are some very tough boots. They are originally German work boots, but goths and punks alike just love them for their stylish look and durability. The original Doc Martens were black leather with rubber soles, though with a resurgence in popularity since the 80's, they now come in black, vinyl, hot pink, plaid, floral and everything in between.

COMBAT BOOTS
Combat boots are one of the most iconic goth items, and out of all of the shoes listed here, are probably some of the easiest to obtain. Combat boots are usually black surplus military boots, and can come from any wartime era. Combat boots sometimes have military nicknames like jungle boots, jump boots or mickey mouse boots (though mickey mouse boots are for cold weather). Check your local thrift shops or military surplus stores for some cheap combat boots.

MARY JANES
Mary Janes are high heeled dress shoes. They are a wonderful pair of shoes to have in your closet because they look very classy and match almost every outfit. They have a thin strap that goes across the top of your foot and buckles on the outside. They come in a variety of colors, including black, red and white vinyl, suede, glitter and imitation leather. This is one item that I would recommend purchasing from a Halloween store.

CHUCK TAYLORS
Chucks are an extremely popular and very recognizable style of shoes. Even non-goths are likely to own a pair of these comfy canvas hi-tops. They come in every color and pattern imaginable, including platforms, knee highs, high heels, black, neon, graffiti and crossword puzzle prints, and plain white that you can add your own designs to.

Whether you own one or all of these goth style staples, these shoes are definitely sure to add some extra kick to your look.

HOW TO: TATTOO AFTERCARE

Now, you have your fresh new tattoo, and you want to take good care of it! From this point on, your artist is not responsible for any infection or problems you may have with your tattoo if you don't take proper care of it. It is very important that you follow these guidelines. A really beautiful tattoo can turn into a disaster if the proper aftercare is not taken.

Leave That Bandage Alone!
Your artist took the care to cover up your new tattoo for a very good reason - to keep air-born bacteria from invading your wound. Yes, as pretty as your new tattoo is, it is still a wound. Open flesh is a breeding ground for bacteria and infection.

Leave the bandage on for a minimum of two hours. Excitement of having a new tattoo will make you want to remove the bandage so you can show your friends, but your friends will just have to wait until later.

The only exception to this rule is if your artist covered your tattoo with saran wrap or some kind of plastic. This is extremely detrimental to a tattoo, so it should be removed immediately. You're better off not having any covering than to be suffocating your new tattoo with plastic wrap.

After you remove the bandage, you will want to wash your tattoo. Use lukewarm water and mild, liquid antibacterial or antimicrobial soap (Satin and Provon are my highest recommendations. Dial tends to be too harsh - generic brand antibacterial soaps are actually better) to gently wash away any ointment, blood and/or plasma and to completely clean the area. Do not use a washcloth or anything abrasive. Your hand is your best tool in this case. (If your tattoo feels slimy and slippery, you have probably been oozing plasma. Try to gently remove as much of this as possible - when the plasma dries on the skin surface, it creates scabs.)

Then pat (do not rub) the area firmly with a CLEAN towel or paper towel to get it completely dry. Follow with a very light application of your choice of ointment. A&D vitamin enriched ointment (A&D ointment can be found in with baby diaper rash lotions) would be my first choice, but if you don't have any, Bacitracin or a similar antibacterial ointment is acceptable.

POINT. Do not use Neosporin. This is a wonderful product for cuts and scrapes, but not for tattoos. Some can have an allergic reaction to the Neosporin, which causes little red bumps. When the bumps go away, so does the ink, and you end up with a polka-dotted tattoo.

If you prefer, you can also use a specialty product such as Tattoo Goo or H2Ocean. It's not necessary, as many over the counter products work just fine, but it's your choice. Use the products as directed as continue for 3-5 days.

After that, continue to keep it clean, but you can use lotion when needed instead of ointment, to keep the skin soft. Whatever lotion you use, it should be dye and fragrance free. A lot of artists recommend Lubriderm, but I have found that Lubriderm stings when I apply it. Instead, I have had great success with Eucerin.

You can (and should!) shower with a new tattoo. It's OK to get your tattoo wet - just don't soak it. Submerging your tattoo in a bath or hot tub can cause serious damage, so you'll want to avoid those for 2-3 weeks, but showering is perfectly fine as long as you don't saturate your tattoo. If you get soap or shampoo on your tattoo, just remove it quickly with water. Swimming - whether it be a pool, fresh water or salt water - should be avoided for at least 2 weeks.

After a few days, you will notice some peeling and possibly a little scabbing. Excessive scabbing could indicate a poorly-done tattoo, but a little is sometimes normal and there is no need to panic. Apply warm moist compresses to the scabs for about 5 minutes 2-3 times a day to soften them and they will eventually come off on their own. (Do not apply ointment or lotion to a softened scab - wait for it to dry) You will also start to itch, just like a sunburn when it begins to heal. The advice here is, don't pick, and don't scratch! If the skin itches, slap it. If it is peeling, put lotion on it. And if it is scabbing, just leave it alone. Your tattoo is almost healed, and now is not the time to ruin it!

After your tattoo is healed, from now on, you will always want to protect it from the sun's ultraviolet rays. These can fade and damage a brilliant tattoo very fast. Before spending a lot of time in excessive heat, protect your tattoo with a minimum 30SPF sunblock. This will keep your tattoo vibrant for many years, and it will continue to be a source of great pride.

GUIDE: STYLE STAPLES

FISHNETS
Fishnets are one of the best things a goth can own. Fishnet stockings, fishnet gloves, fishnet shirts, fishnet dresses. Fishnets are so versatile, they're cheap, come in endless colors and styles and they pretty much go with everything.

BLACK T SHIRTS
This probably seems like it goes without saying, but black t shirts really are handy to have. You can pair them with plaid skirts, booty shorts, skinny jeans, pajama bottoms, or whatever you like. Plus, there are tons of ways you can cut, alter and customize t shirts for a really edgy look.

LEATHER JACKET
Leather jackets can be either a subtle, cool, tough item or a very bold statement piece. How you decorate your jacket (or don't) is totally up to you, but every inch of that black leather has potential.

SKINNY JEANS
Skinny jeans just go with everything. Pair them with a t shirt or corset, heavy boots, shred them up and wear them over fishnets, write or draw on them with a bleach pen. Feel free to be as creative as you like.

CORSET
Corsets are a statement piece. They are very sexy and come in endless colors, patterns, fabrics and styles, and every goth should own at least one.

HOW TO: GAUGE YOUR EARS

Gauging your ears can be a very fun and exciting process. It gives an interesting look with endless options for gorgeous jewelry to wear. All you have to do is be patient.

The first thing to do is pierce your ears. You can get this done at most any mall or tattoo shop. Wait until your ear piercing is FULLY healed before you start gauging. The healing process for a regular ear piercing is 6-8 weeks.

If you get your ears pierced at a tattoo shop, you may be able to ask them to pierce your ears with a larger gauge needle. This will save you a few steps in the end.

A normal ear piercing is (I'm guessing) around an 18 gauge/18g. Right off the bat, you can probably fit a 16g or possibly a 14g earring with no trouble. See what size you can fit comfortably and start from there.

There are four main types of jewelry for gauged ears. Tapers look like a long spike. Tunnels are circles that have empty space in the middle. Plugs are solid, flat round pieces, and pinchers look like a C shape with points at the ends. Always use tapers when going to a bigger size.

Gauging (or stretching) your ears is a relatively simple process. Start with a small earring and move up, one size at a time, until you reach the size you want. That's really all there is to it.

However, while the concept may be simple, it's easier said than done. Here are a few tips to make the gauging process easier.

1. DO NOT SKIP SIZES. Just don't.

2. Wait at least two weeks in between sizes, the longer the better. I recommend one size per month.

3. If your bigger gauges won't fit, try rubbing lotion all over both your jewelry and your ear to help slide it through.

4. If that doesn't work, try wrapping a single layer of electrical tape around your earring. Each day, try the bigger size again and if it still won't fit, add one more layer to your smaller gauges.

5. If you're trying to get really big gauges, try hanging padlocks through your gauges to help stretch the skin.

6. This is just my personal opinion, but I don't consider anything smaller than an 8g as "having gauges." Less than 10g is just earrings, 8g - 00g are small gauges and when you start measuring your sizes in fractions, you have big gauges.

7. Some people have a very snobby attitude about body modifications. These people insist that they are called "stretched ears," and that if you call them "gauges" that you are a complete novice in the body mod world. Forget these people (and never end up like them!). Call them whatever you want to.

8. Don't be surprised when you find out that gauges stink. A lot. Clean your ears and your jewelry regularly to keep your gauges smelling fresh. Also, wood and silicon earrings tend to stink the least while metal gauges stink the worst.

9. If you can't get a larger size gauge to fit, do not force it.  You will tear your skin and possibly rip right through your ear. It looks gross when that happens and it requires surgery to fix so don't push it. It's not worth the risk. Refer back to tips 3 and 4 for helping get big gauges in.

10. Before you go through the effort of getting huge gauges, think about whether or not you might want a nice job at a bank or a jewelry store, or some other job that might not hire you because you have gauges. Also remember, gauges will shrink over time, but the bigger you go, the harder it is for your skin to shrink back down to a normal size and it may never be the same after you have gauges.

11. Finally, BE PATIENT. Rome wasn't built in a day. Gauging, especially to big sizes is a long process and rushing things will only end badly.

Good luck!

DIY: ACRYLIC NAILS

STEP 1. Buying Acrylic Nail Supplies

BUYING AN ACRYLIC NAIL KIT

If this is your first time doing your own acrylic nails, you may want to start with a kit. Kits contain everything you need to get started and come with detailed instructions to help you achieve the look you want. They can be purchased at most department stores and beauty supply stores.

BUYING SUPPLIES SEPARATELY

For greater control over the appearance of your acrylics, you may want to buy the supplies separately. This way you'll also be prepared when it's time to reapply acrylic after your nails grow out.

Go to a beauty supply store and buy the following supplies:

Acrylic nail tips and nail tip glue. The tips are usually quite long, which allows you to trim and file them down to the shape and size you want.

Acrylic nail clippers and files. Regular clippers and files aren't as effective on acrylic nails.

Acrylic liquid and acrylic powder. These substances are mixed together to create acrylic nails.

Acrylic bowl and acrylic brush. You need these supplies to mix up the acrylic and apply it.

STEP 2. Remove old nail polish. Acrylic should be applied to clean nails, so remove your old polish before getting started. Use acetone-based nail polish remover to take it off. If you have old acrylic nails or gels to remove, soak them in pure acetone to remove them.

STEP 3. Trim your nails. To provide a good base for the acrylic, use a nail scissors or nail clippers to trim your natural nails to a short, even, manageable length. Use a nail file to even them out.

STEP 4. File the surface of your nails. Use a soft nail file to make the surface of your nails slightly rougher and less shiny. This provides a better surface for the acrylic to stick to.

STEP 5. Push back your cuticles. You want the acrylic to be adhered to your natural nails, not your skin. Push back your cuticles or trim them to keep them out of the way while you give yourself a manicure.

POINT. Use a metal or wooden cuticle pusher to push back your cuticles. If you don't have a cuticle pusher, a wooden popsicle stick can be substituted.

STEP 6. Use nail primer. This removes the remaining moisture and oils from your nails to get them ready for the acrylic. If oil remains on your nails, the acrylic won't stick. Use a cotton ball to carefully rub the surface of your nails with the primer.

STEP 7. Apply the nail tips. Find the right size tips for your nail. If the tip doesn't fit your nail perfectly, file it down to size. Place a dab of glue on the tip and apply it to your natural nail so that the bottom edge of the acrylic tip is centered halfway down the surface of your nail. Hold it in place for five seconds to allow the glue to dry.

POINT. If you accidentally apply the nail tip crooked, soak it in water for a few minutes to remove it, they dry your nail and reapply the nail tip.

STEP 8. Get the acrylic materials ready. Pour the liquid acrylic into the acrylic dish, and pour some powder into a separate dish. Acrylic is a strong chemical that produces fumes that can be toxic, so make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area.

STEP 9. Load the acrylic brush. Dip the brush into the dish to moisten the end with acrylic liquid. Brush it against the side of the bowl to remove excess liquid. Run the brush through the acrylic powder so that a small, moist ball collects on the end of the brush.

POINT. You may have to practice a few times to achieve the correct ratio of liquid to powdered acrylic. The small ball of acrylic mixture should be moist and spreadable, but not too wet.

STEP 10. Apply the acrylic mixture to your nails. Start at the "smile line," the bottom edge of the acrylic tip. Flatten the acrylic ball over the line and brush it up to the tip. Spread it quickly and smoothly so that the transition between your natural nail and the acrylic tip is smooth. Repeat with all ten nails.

POINT. If you apply the acrylic correctly, there should be a gentle curve, rather than a harsh line, where the acrylic tip meets your natural nail. You may need to use more than one ball of acrylic per nail to achieve this.

POINT. Don't apply the acrylic to your cuticle. It should start a few millimeters above your cuticle so that it adheres to your nail, not your skin.

STEP 11. Let the acrylic dry. It should only take about ten minutes before the acrylic is completely set. Test it by tapping the surface of your nail with the handle of your acrylic brush. If it makes a clicking sound, it's ready for the next step.

STEP 12. Shape the tips. Now that the acrylic has set, you can use the acrylic nail clippers and a course nail file to shape the tips and trim them to the length you want. Use a buffer to buff the surface of the nails.

STEP 13. Paint your nails. You can use a coat of clear polish or choose to paint them with colored nail polish. Apply the polish to the entire nail to create a smooth, even surface.

STEP 14. Maintain your acrylic nails. After about two weeks, your nails will grow out. Choose to either reapply acrylic or remove the acrylic from your nails.

HOW TO: BLEACH & HAIR COLOR

There are many styles and occasions when you may want colored hair. You might want something as simple as pink highlights or as complex as a rainbow-tipped mohawk. In this article, I will walk you through basic hair coloring techniques and maintenance. (NOTE, I am not a cosmetologist, these are guidelines as I have discovered them on my own)

POINT. Professional stylists will almost always tell you that you cannot do your hair yourself, or that "if you're doing it at home, you're doing it wrong." This is simply not true. These people paid a lot of money to go to beauty schools, and they make their livings by charging you over ten times as much as you would spend to do it yourself. If you know that you can do the same thing yourself for a fraction of the cost, it hurts their business, so of course they want you to come to them. You CAN do this, and you will do great!

Your hair is like a canvas. If you have a dark canvas, light paint won't be visible. So you paint on light canvas. But how do you get a light canvas? Before adding color to your hair, I advise you to lighten it.

LIGHTENING:

There are two methods, and they are very similar. The first is stripping the color. You can buy a box of color stripper from department store health and beauty departments for about $10. The second method is bleach. You can also buy box bleach at department stores for around $10. In my opinion, they are pretty much the same, but color stripper seems to be slightly less damaging to your hair.

POINT. Don't be fooled. You are damaging your hair. You are using harsh chemicals to alter the physical characteristics of your hair. The extent of the damage is what you need to focus on.

POINT. Make sure you buy actual bleach or color stripping kits, not blonde hair color.

POINT. Remember to always begin with clean hair. However, do not wash your hair immediately before coloring or lightening. If you need to wash your hair, wait til the next day to work with it.

STEP 1. The first step to coloring your hair is section off the parts of your hair you want to color. If you want your whole hair to be one color, skip this step.

HIGHLIGHTS. If you are highlighting, use a highlighting cap. It looks like an old ladies rain bonnet with a bunch of little holes in it. Put the cap on and use the end of a pick comb to pull your hair through the holes. Pull as much or as little through as you like and you are ready to begin.

SECTIONS/CHUNKS. Whether it's your bangs, the whole bottom half, the left side, the right side or any combination of pieces you want, you need to separate it from the rest of your hair. Use a comb to section out the parts you want to color, and tie or pin back the rest of it so that the sections are clearly divided.

STEP 2. Follow the mixing instructions on the box for your lightening product and you are ready to start. When bleaching or stripping your hair, remember to start from the bottom. Using a bowl and brush, or an applicator bottle and your fingers, apply the lightening product to the ends of your hair.

POINT. Always wear gloves. Due to the strong fumes bleach kits can produce, you may also want a protective mask.

Continue to work the bleach mixture through your hair, combing it through with either your fingers or a comb. You must be thorough. Apply the bleach over the entire area you want to color, except for your roots. Leave about 2"-3" of hair at the roots.

POINT. The heat from your head will cause your roots to process faster. If you bleach it all at once, you will end up with white roots and orange hair.

STEP 3. Once you have applied the lightening mixture to all but the roots of the hair you want to color, cover your hair. You can use a snug disposable shower cap or you can tie a plastic shopping bag over it.

POINT. The idea is to trap in the heat. You want to get your hair as hot as possible.

STEP 4. Using a blow dryer, high heat, low setting, act as if you are drying your hair. Keep the blow dryer moving, and be sure to cover all areas of your head evenly.

POINT. Don't keep the heat over the same spot for too long or you risk melting your cap/bag.

POINT. The trapped heat will accelerate the lightening process and intensify bright hair color.

STEP 5. Every 10 minutes or so, check the lightening progress. When your hair is a nice pumpkin orange all over, go ahead and apply the rest of the bleach to your hair, including the roots this time. Re-cover and continue blow drying your hair.

STEP 6. Be sure to keep an eye on the clock. The time doesn't have to be down to the minute, but I usually suggest leaving the bleach in for an hour.

POINT. I advise against going over an hour and a half. At this point, your hair may begin to turn to paste.

STEP 7. Rinse and dry your hair thoroughly. Do not shampoo.

POINT. If your hair is not a light blonde color after lightening, just be patient. I recommend waiting at least two weeks before bleaching it again.

POINT. Beauty supply stores, hair stores and salons should all sell "violet shampoo." This light purple shampoo can help reduce the brassy red and orange tones in your hair.

COLORING:

STEP 1. If you are going to color your hair, re-section and tie off the parts you don't want to color. Use bobby pins to tightly separate your hair.

POINT. The brand of hair color that I personally recommend is SPLAT. This brand can be found in most department stores, such as Wal-Mart or Meijer. Different locations stock different colors, so shop around. SPLAT brand lasts the longest, has the most intense and beautiful colors, and comes with its own bleach kit.

POINT. Apply vaseline around your hair line (to your skin, not your hair) to prevent the hair color from staining your skin.

STEP 2. Using your applicator bottle, apply the color to the lightened sections of your hair. Be sure to be very thorough, because if you miss a spot (the same as with the bleach), it will really stand out.

STEP 3. Cover your hair using a disposable shower cap or plastic shopping bag, just like you did with the bleach.

STEP 4. Blow dry your hair through the cap or bag. This is an important step, as it really makes your hair color bright and intense. Make sure to heat your hair evenly and all over.

STEP 5. Watch the clock. Leave your color in for about an hour, but not longer than an hour and a half, blow drying it the entire time.

STEP 6. Rinse your hair with COLD WATER. Be sure to rinse until the water runs totally clear. Do not shampoo. Dry and style as desired.

MAINTENANCE:

POINT. It is very important to rinse your hair with very cold water. Cold water holds the color in, hot water will wash it out.

POINT. If you can't stand cold showers, wash your hair in cold water in a bathroom or kitchen sink, cover your hair with a shower cap and then you can take a hot shower.

POINT. Do not go to bed with wet hair. It will stain your sheets and pillows.

POINT. Bright colors fade over time. After a few weeks or months, you may want to touch up your color. Just repeat the coloring process, there is no need to bleach it again.